Linda: Beauty and the Beast, March 31

Beauty and the Beast
Or in chronological order, The Beast and the Beauty.

The last night in Jaisalmar was an introduction to the next parts of our journey. Rajasthan was celebrating Gautour, a beautiful celebration for women. The celebration lasts for nine days, during which the women fast and pray during the day. Women of marriageable age will pray for a good husband and married women will pray for the welfare of their husbands in their work and lives. In this, the unity of purpose makes a harmonious circle, for the men are supporting and venerating the woman in her aspect of goddess while the women pray for benediction for the men. The culmination of the festival is on one of the last evenings. Everyone dresses in their finest clothes and and the women deck themselves with layers of jewelry. Several layers of necklaces and hair adornments as well as bangles covering the entire lower arm if single and upper arm if married can be seen on all the women, while the men wear their finest turbans and dress with beard parted and combed and mustachio – oh those amazing mustaches – are curled and waxed into place.

We walk to the fort and stand in front of the 500 year old palace, awaiting the maharaja. Six camels are outside the fort, covered in brightly colored equipment: saddles covered in beautifully embroidered cloth and long strands of brightly colored balls drape their heads and backs. They stand, regal and calm, amongst the din of the gathering crowd. Other camels are behind, not as richly attired, but a presence, as well as horses in beautiful saddles and silver ornaments. None of the camels or horses are to be ridden and I wonder why this was so. Is it out of respect for the goddess? Is it because they represent a certain hero or family of old? Is it because of protocol in the presence of the maharaja where only the ceremonial monarch can ride? We wait … and wait … and wait. Wild drums throb for hours as well as the barely audible royal band of bagpipes. Women in saris wait on the fringes while young, pre-puberty girls form a line, lovely in dress and carrying offerings. Women are seen going into the palace with young children, privileged to receive the blessings of the goddess, Gautour (related to Shiva’s consort, Paravati) in the palace before she is led in procession to the nearby lake. Any women with young children are allowed this privilege, for they are to be honored. Two hours later, the statue of the goddess comes down from the palace, clothed in her own golden attire and jewels. She is carried on the head of an elder woman of good repute and helped by men on the four corners of the goddess’s palanquin. She turns once in front of the people and is then placed on the steps where women come to give her offerings and receive her blessing. The maharaja arrives in glistening attire. His presence is, however, is marred by his inability to mount and stay steady on the waiting horse. We have been told he has a problem with alcohol. The procession begins, a little haphazard, which is often the case with beginnings. If we were on the streets instead of right at the palace, we would have probably seen more of a regal parade, but as it was, we saw the last minute tidying of dress and arrangement of drum and turban. Camels and horses lead the procession, followed by the line of girls bearing gifts, then the musicians flanking the goddess. The maharaja is next and all the people follow behind, going to the nearby lake, the only real source of water for miles and miles. Here the goddess is submerged in the waters, giving her blessings and benedictions. Puja, or ceremonies, continue, and then she returns, in procession to the palace where she will reside until the next time.

Thus, we saw a hint of the former majesty of the presence of a great king. For Rajasthan is the center of the great kings of India. Here is the center of the Silk Route. For centuries and centuries, all caravans crossed these wild mountains and deserts, and heavy taxes were charged for the privilege. The towns, merchants, people, and kings grew very, very rich from the taxes of this trade in silk, gold, silver, jewels, opium, zinc, and other precious commodities. And their wealth was spent on building elaborate (and effective) fortifications of opulent beauty. The fortifications were necessary. The palaces are sprawling architectural gems, a series of courtyards and palaces for the royal family and the hundreds of guests that may be present at any time, as well as areas for the many servants and the people who come with pleas and petitions. A few rooms are still richly attired with silver beds and furniture or with carpets and cushions, but mostly, one wanders the empty corridors, stripped of carpet and decoration, and tries to imagine what once had been.

Eleanor and I have now seen the palace forts of Jaisalmar, Jodhpur, and Udaipur – all opulent and all impressive in their fortification. It is in Udaipur that one can really see the grandeur of the palaces in a romantic and beautiful setting. The city, begun by Udai Singh in the 16th century, was built around a sparkling lake surrounded by low and rounded mountains. The City Palace, present home of the current maharaja, also houses two hotels and a museum. There are also two summer palaces in the center of the lake. One was never really used, though you can eat dinner there. The other palace was the summer palace for the maharaja. It is now one of the world’s finest hotels, made famous by its use in the James Bond film, Octopussy. We are staying in a beautiful old haveli next to the glistening lake. It is a lovely and welcoming place with several courtyards and terraces as well as a window seat in the room that is every girl’s dream – a wide double bed surrounded by glass and looking onto no fewer than five palaces. The Lake Palace of the maharaja stands white, hovering nearby on the lake.

It is in Udaipur that Eleanor and I were having our “splurge”, for we planned on spending one night in that Lake Palace. It has been interesting to go through the emotions of this decision. My thrifty side was completely guilt ridden. My wild nature side was wondering why I would go. My curious side wondered what it was like – I’ve never been in a five star hotel, never mind one of the grandest palaces on earth. And my practical side was telling me that I will probably never be here again. A gift from my parents and frugal saving over the past few weeks won, and tonight, we will stay in the palace. Conflicting feelings still reign.