2-10-09

We’d had some trouble deciding whether to stay in Khajaraho for one day or for two. But then Mom read in the Lonely Planet that there was a bathtub in our hotel and that clinched it: two days, if not three. I had my bath this morning and it was rather glorious to be able to soak luxuriously in the hot water, rather than having to worry about buckets and drains.
After a late breakfast, Mom and I headed out to the West Group of temples. All of the 85 temples in this area, of which 22 remain, were built by the Chandella Emporers between the 10th and 12th centuries. But they were abandoned when the Chandella Empire fell apart and left to the jungle. They were not rediscovered until the 1830s when TS Burt, a young British Officer, was led here by his palanquin bearers. He described them as “rearing their sun-burnt tops above the huge trees by which they were surrounded, with all the pride of superior height and age” but also warned his fellow Victorians that “the sculptor had at times allowed his subject to grow a little warmer than there was any absolute necessity for his doing”.
The thousands of sculptures and friezes depict aspects of everyday life from armies going off to war to women applying cosmetics, from couples in loving embrace to tiger hunts. There was even on a man sculpting an elephant with a chisel. Everything is incredibly well preserved, especially considering the millennium which has passed since these were carved. The beautiful faces are still clearly visible; even emotions can be read.
Mom and I listened to an Audio Guide which told some of the history as well as pointing out and describing certain individual works of art, such as the woman removing a thorn from her foot.
After visiting the West Group, we decided to leave the East and South Groups for tomorrow and just rest. I typed a lot. As you can see, I was quite behind in my posting, but have now caught up, thank goodness. We ate dinner at Bella Italia, which was tasty. I got fettuccini, obviously not Indian food, and my taste buds welcomed the change from fiery to savory.