Linda: Overview of Kerela

Linda: Overview of Kerela


We have left the state of Tamil Nadu and have entered into the southwestern state of Kerela. It is interesting to see how different it is from one state to the next, not only topographically, but also with regard to housing, begging, litter, quality of buildings, English, and level of education. In Kerala, even the little villages in the hills have solid houses – built of concrete and without charm, but solid. In Tamil Nadu, most of the village houses were of thatch with clay floors; only the wealthier had more solid homes, and many were not very well maintained. Kerela is a much wealthier state than Tamil Nadu, with a smaller population and smaller cities. It be interesting to research the historical background of these areas to see why this is so. I suspect a large part of it is due to the spice trade – a big trade item for thousands of years. I also wonder how much of it may be due to the significant influence of the Christian and Jewish communities here, who would have helped the Indian population adjust to the era of Western trade. The Christian influence is much more evident with regard to churches and schools, but the Jewish influence and expertise was felt throughout this area by some accounts as early as the 11th century BC. It is saied that the first Jews arrived as part of King Solomon’s trading fleet in the 11th century BC. Others say in 587BC, when the Jewish people fled the occupation of Jerusalem by Nebuchadnezzar. Either way, they settled just north of Kochi (next stop) in Cranganone and traded in spices. They remained respected members of Keralan society and even had their own reuler until the arrival of the Portugeese inquisition in the early 16th century. At that time, when Jews were being bruned at the stake in Goa and evicted elsewhere along the coast, the raja of Kochi gave them a parcel of land adjoing the royal palace, which we will visit in a few days. The new Jewish community was much in demand as they spoke Malayalam, and they thrived during the great trading period under the Dutch and, later, British rule. There are 3 distinct groups of Jews in Kerala. The Black Jews were emplyed as laborers in the spice business and their community of thousands resulted from the eearliest Jewish settlers marrying and converting Indians. Brown Jews are thougt to have been slave converts. White Jews considered themselves superior to both groups, were orthodox and married only amongst themselves. By the 1950’s, most of Kochi’s Jews (White Jews?) emigrated when they were given free passage to Israel. The White Jews’ traditional ways of life are on the verge of desappearing as only seven families survive and their ideals and values have inevitably moved with the times.

One saw a few churches in all the cities in Tamil Nadu, and every town and city seemed to have one or more Christian based school. The school here in Kerala have been, in general, much better than the government schools with regard to education – if one was looking for a western education – specializing in the teaching of English which opened many doors to families with regard to occupation. These schools were not more rigorous than the traditional Indian schools of Vedic background, but they did prepare them for a world of opportunity with the west. I think that for many years, families had to choose between the two kinds of education. Now, some families are trying to do both – steep their children in the rich literature and doctrine of ancient India as well as having them learn English. It is a very significant moment in India, as the country is really on the edge of moving out of its third world status and become a developed nation – a mixed blessing, to say the least. So much to be lost of languages, lore, song, traditions, medicine, stories. Yet, we are in the present world at the present time. One can not go back, but hopefully, one can go forward while preserving a dignity and integrity that is uniquely India.

The Christian population is a definite minority here, but its presence is felt throughout the countryside. In the mountains and villages of interior Kerela, it is the Syrian based church brought by St. Thomas that is seen, though the white churches of Portugeese influence are also prevelant.. I haven’t found out yet how the Syrian church differs from the Orthodox or Catholic or Syrian Catholic traditions, outside of its obvious independence. From the little I understand, the differences are there, but mostly the churches are very similar. Again, I’d love to trace the history of this, and wonder how much of the present church is, in fact, the old church of St. Thomas and how much has been modified by Portugeese Catholic and English Anglican influences. One thing for sure, they have adapted to their new Indian world! The churches look like European churches, but the little shrines dotted throughout the countryside have a definite Indian flair, and boast some architectural features that I’ve seen in the big temples. Also, the schools and churches here are in excellent repair, as are the other colleges. The streets are reasonably clean, we’ve seen only one beggar (maybe it’s illegal here). This state enjoys the highest level of literacy – something like 90%, versus 65% in the rest of India. It is also immensely beautiful and a major area for tourism, appealing to loves of nature rather than cities. Consequently, there is much more English on signs. As a side, having been in areas where one mostly saw the Tamil script, I’ve noticed that it starts to become more familiar and less like a series of curly, round shapes. As a teacher, I find it interesting to see how much one “learns” just by immersion. I think it would be easier to learn the script now, after having been here for nearly 4 weeks, than it would have in isolation at home. Another interesting fact is that the elected governmental officials are Communist. This is the only freely elected Communist state in the world. Again, I’d love to know how that works, exactly.

Just a few side notes about travel. For me, there is a 3 week period of adjustment when traveling to a country whose culture and lifestyle is so different than one’s own. The first three weeks are tiring and one is always on edge. Everything is new and one is a little defensive. And yet, after three weeks, it all gets much, much easier – and the pangs of homesickness lessen a bit. One can embrace the people more, will try different things, and it is even more enjoyable on many fronts. You also learn what you like and what you need and how to get those things, which also helps. So, my recommendation, if you really want to “see” a country is 1) to NOT go with a tour, 2) stay in lots of different kinds of hotels/homestays/city/country and modes of travel – lots of variety, and 3) definitely stay 5 weeks or more, because the first three, though interesting, has a lot of adjustment and it’s not easy. AND, Eleanor and I are doing much better at “fitting in”. Our saris are “just right” now, and if walk down the street “just so” all the shopkeepers think we’re either Indian or have been here many times and don’t even bother to try to strike up a conversation with the hopes of luring us in. It’s WONDERFUL!! And the beggars don’t try very hard with us either. As our Sikh friend said, I thought you were from North India … until you opened your mouth! Silence is golden.

Also, enjoy the differences!! Yesterday, I needed to get my saris ironed, so I went to the local lady on the street who was ironing on a little flat cart. She was there every day, doing lots of ironing for the local people on a flat cart covered with several layers of fabric and … a coal iron. It was not like the irons I’ve seen in museums that the pioneers used where they would put it near the fire to heat, let it cool, then use it – often having 2 irons at a time, one to use and one to heat. This one was quite heavy and large, but hollow! Hot coals were put inside, so it had a continuous supply of even heat. The combination of heat and weight did a fabulous job – much better than my little iron at home. Besides the iron, she had an excellent way of folding and refolding the clothes while she ironed so that she got every bit ironed, but none of it fell to the dirty ground. Quite a little art. Once ironed, it was folded into newspaper and handed back – imminently more packable than its previous disarray.

And tailoring!! It is a tailoring paradise here. For $2.00, I had a sari blouse, fully lined, made to my exact measurements. The sari blouse is much cooler than our long blouses, rather tight fitting, beautiful, and … comes with four rows of stitching which you can take out if your size changes – for the bigger, which, unfortunately, is usually the case. If you have a favorite skirt, shirt, dress, etc. that fits “just right”, you can bring in the item with fabric and they will make an exact copy – perfectly, and quickly and cheaply. We are planning to explore the tailoring world in more detail in Varanasi. The tailors all work on the old, non-electric sewing machines where you have a pedal to pump at the bottom. I’ve watched them stitch. Nothing fancy, just forward and back, but FAST! One of the things I’ve loved here is seeing what is done without electricity, the way it was done a century ago here. Often, it takes no longer, works as well or better, and is very cost efficient.

Finally, I must mention the cost of traveling in India. With some experience, one can find a clean room for $10-$15 a night with a shower, TV, and sometimes phone. (You can find a not so clean room for $5.00 a night.) You can stay in a more upscale hotel for $40 (marble floors, several restaurants, grand entry, travel agent on hand, handsome sitting rooms) or an ashram for free(3 nights only). As far as food, one can eat in an upscale restaurant for $5 a meal or a very delicious Indian restaurant for $1.00. A four hour bus ride costs about $1.00, but you can hire a car and driver to do the same trip for $30-$40. Air fare in India is very expensive, but one can travel by train 3 days for about $75. Now, these are reasonable bottom to middle level prices . One can also stay in palaces and hotels with service and charm to rival any place in the world – more in the north than here. That part is coming in April, and even that is much less expensive than anywhere else in the world.

Labor is very, very cheap here – which helps with the pricing, but is very hard for the families. We went to a place for a massage, paying 600 rupees ($12) for 90 minutes. Later, we found out that at another place, a man gave 8 massages a day (1000 rupees each) and received, for his labor, 75 rupees total. And that is considered a good wage. People here work 6 days a week and often longer than an 8 hour work day. There are no benefits. The idea of travel for most Indians is a strange one. Except for going on a pilgrimage, they see no reason to go away – everything is near at hand, all they love and want. This is changing because the family structure is changing. I was speaking with a Sikh from the Himalayans yesterday and he confirmed what our sari dealer in Kanchipuram said. The people of some means of my generation (age 50-60) would have grown up in a compound, run by the patriarch with all brothers, wives, children, aunts, and uncles living together in a compound of rooms, usually with a courtyard. This is almost completely gone, and most of India is now nuclear families, becoming more far flung, much like America. With that change, travel will become more common –again, a new horizon here in India.