Linda: Kanchipuram - The Temple City

Kancipurum – The Temple City

Unfortunately, we had not eaten before going to see the Jagadguru, thinking we’d be there for an hour or two at the most and would then go back to the hotel. Instead, we were in a taxi going on a tour of the various temples of Kanchi! We were not in the best state to appreciate the temples, I must admit. We were tired, thirsty, hungry, and … having difficulty communicating. We were also not quite psychologically prepared for the barrage of possibilities at the temples. Coming with a guide also meant being introduced as a visitor, which opened the door to another tour guide. – something which I have always avoided like the plague. Instead of being able to meander through a museum or temple, one is taken around, talked to, and shuffled quickly from one place to the next. I suspect this is what most tourists want, but I am more of a “savorer” of places rather than the “quick bite”, preferring to spend hours in one area or it is too much, too fast. So, it was the whirlwind tour of temples, each with a guide who wanted payment. We did have a blessing from one of the priests for our family, which was quite beautiful (donation required afterwards). If we were not so overwhelmed, so rushed, so bombarded by different people wanting to help (for a fee), and so hungry I’m sure we would have managed better. As it was, we endured. . I must learn to set my own pace and not be “guided”. Otherwise, I will not see India and I will not be able to fully appreciate her people and ways.

In retrospect, we met some pious and interesting people at the various temples. There was a devotee of Shankara at a museum who was particularly helpful and took great delight in sharing the stories of Shankara, Rama, Krishna, other deities. His presence of duty, acceptance, and happiness was a joy and an inspiration. And the sight of the frail body of Narayana, with his joy in the moment and his attitude of service and helpfulness. Then, the powerful presence of Sharma – he is someone with whom one would wish to spend a long time.

Today – writing and resting … and maybe, if I’m brave, some sari shopping.

The sari shop – which Eleanor has detailed! What a wonderful, human, enterprising, warm, and satisfying experience for all. Everyone was happy. The shopkeeper, who educated as well as entertained us. The help who enjoyed both our interaction with them and with each other. The young women who were very impressed and interested in Patrick, a young man buying a sari for a girlfriend. This was indeed interesting. There was never just looking and bargaining. After showing us a few quality showpieces and determining the price we wanted to pay, five people scurried back and forth displaying a glittering array of sari upon sari. Then, cups of tea, more saris, then an animated and interesting conversation with the shopkeeper, followed by more saris. All were comfortable, all were happy. Then, the final choices, fabric draped over Eleanor and, inevitably, buying more than we planned. Followed by the promise of more tea, more things to look at - and yet, no pressure either. Just a simple joy in showing what they had and a simple acceptance that we were not interested. Then, all is done, everyone prepares the shop for the evening while we visit once more with the proprietor and … enjoy the last cup of tea/coffee. We came back to the hotel very happy and animated. What a joyful way to do business – and this is from someone who will avoid help at a store!

So, success in the shopping department and in negotiating prices with the auto rickshaw drivers! High marks for adjusting to India today.